Vaping on a mech: only a trend?


Vaping on a mech is the trend now, a vaping method that allows wonders and delights ... right? No, wrong ... the mech is a "philosophy".

first, it exists since vaping exists.
secondly, it has never been a trend.
third, it never allowed wonders.

The mech mod was born at the dawn of vaping to go beyond the heavy limitations of the first electronic circuits with an output in the order of 15W; in simple terms the mech vape (tubes or boxes) is just a way to bring current to the coil, the simplest and most direct way there being no electronic circuit that interposes between the battery and the resistance, managing or limiting this or that parameter.

Although the definition may seem "trivial", the absence of any form of control has a series of implications much less logical: the most important and crucial is about limit.

Now, let's make an example: I pass you a mch bottom feeder mod (for example a Rigmod) on which I mounted an Entheon, an excellent combo for flavour chasing. you take a draw and are impressed and satisfied by the experience, the soft and fluid output, the full-bodied steam ... is it so simple to get this from a mech? No.

The limits vaping on a mech are two, the battery (or rather the laws of physics) and yourself; and just to close the circle, they are also the only two safety systems available on a mech.

How much do you know about electricity?

I wrote before a mech has no limitations given by a circuit, well ... .the battery has a physical limit, the Ampere that it can deliver. An  excellent quality battery is be able to deliver a maximum of 30A, a continuous request close to the limit leads the battery to stress with a premature deterioration .... A request above the limit leads to consequences very unpleasant. In truth, a VTC has a limit of 20A continuous, but can withstand much higher amp for short activations: attention, it is not that if we ask 30A or 35A for 3 seconds the battery explodes, but we are still stressing (and a lot) the chemistry of our battery reducing its useful life. And the more a battery is old and / or stressed, the less it will be chemically stable and safe.

The nominal voltage of a battery is 3.7V, but the more you get low with the Ohms, the less power will be able to be delivered (battery sag). With a very low res a good battery delivers something around 3.5V, 3.7V only in the first shots. With a resistance around 1 Ohm, however, this voltage drop will be much less marked. * If you want to read the calculations look at the bottom of the article.

What about Power?

A single battery in a tube delivers a maximum of 130W for very few shots, which means asking 37A to the battery (at least in the first full charge activations with a resistance of 0.1 Ohm). If we want to be in total safety the values are lower: considering the nominal 3.7V and the 20A continuous limit, the maximum output is 75W (which then, coincidentally, are those that can be delivered by a electronic big battery powered by single battery). This datasif we consider maximum powers at full charge, if we consider the fact that after a few puffs the battery voltage drops abruptly and then stabilize in a decreasing "sweet" slope, I can surely say that the power delivered along the useful arc are definitely more low. ** other calculations & formulas at the end of the article!

Other disadvantages?

When the battery is low there is no LED that warns you, there is no circuit that says "low battery" and prevents to activate the mod: you have to measure the remaining charge with an instrument sometimes during use, at least in the beginning... then with experience you will notice "by mouth" when the battery is to be changed. If you go below this threshold? Nothing good will happens: the limit is 2.8V, if you go beyond just a little you simply kill the battery, if you go far beyon requesting high Amps you are going to encounter some bad reactions (venting/explosion)

An inaccurate build or if something goes wrong (for example, you cut the wire badly and it comes in contact with the bell) there is no circuit that stops you and just after the activation you'll find yourself with a device in short circuit between the hands and close to the face: in practice the current demand is infinite, the chemistry of the battery goes crazy, the battery heats up more and more until it starts venting. Unpleasant situation that you can avoid by testing the regeneration on a big battery circuit.

Many mechs do not have lock system or "over puff" systems. So if you put the box (or tube) in your bag or pocket, make sure that the fire button can not be activated accidentally, because your mech would fire without problems until the damage.

In addition to a good deal of theoretical knowledge, a mech requires constant maintenance: clean contacts, threads, periodical check of the the insulators condition  ... making a log story short, a lot of work. I can say you'll spend more time manteining the mech instead of using it!

A sincere advice

If you prefer something like "plug&play" it's better to look for an electronic big battery; if you want to vape at 150W it's better, again, to look for an electronic big battery. If you are a beginner with RTA or RDA choose an electronic Big Battery, if everything you read above scares you .... choose an electronic big battery. Most of them have the bypass mode that excludes some funcions of the board, activating only the safety funcions: in this way you can enjoy an experience very close to a pure mechanic (I would say 90% ) but remaining in complete safety.

So, why a Mech?

Because the output of a mech is unique, because the physiological declining power delivered (due to battery discharge) makes you discover the various aromatic nuances of liquids, because if well kept it is practically eternal, because it is reliable, because it is innately simple, because you are only you and physics, because the device works properly you've been making it work so well. As I said at the beginning, the mech is not a trend ... the mech is a Vape Philosophy.

A mechanical device is not for everyone, but if you are ready to understand it and study it, it will give you great satisfaction

Calculations & Formulas

In truth they are simply the notes above, but if you get bored or do not "understand anything" .... go to the paragraph "a sincere advice"

* A Sony VTC5 has an internal resistance of 0.012 Ohms, let's check the nominal battery voltage, 3.7V.
- If we mount a resistance of 0.11 Ohms, we ask for each activation 33.6A (I = V / r). Considering the internal resistance, this will "steal" 0.4V (V = r * I), which means that the battery will actually deliver 3.3V (Vnominal - Vdrop)
- If we mount a resistance of 0.90 Ohm, we ask for each activation 4.1A (I = V / r). Considering the internal resistance, this will "steal" 0.05 (V = r * I), which means that the battery will actually deliver 3.65V (Vnominal - Vdrop)

** At full charge, considering the drop above with a resistance of 0.1 Ohm, we have a maximum output of 137W and 37A (P = (V * V) / r and I = P / V). Consider the safety limits, 20A and 3.7V we find (P = V * I) a maximum power of 75W and then work with resistors no lower than 0.18 Ohm (r = (V * V) / P)





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